Don't be afraid of the through-the-liner returns. Just be sure to tamp the backfill around each pipe so they're in a solid setting. It usually takes two people to install them and only go arm's length down the side - one person holds the outside of the fitting outside the pond male threaded while the other tightens the nut that sandwiches the liner against the flange female threaded for a water-tight installation. A bit of aquarium-safe adhesive wouldn't hurt either.
Tip: Inch-and-a-half PVC, schedule 40, is good for most water transfer functions. However, if the run is longer than about 15 feet, 2" works better by reducing flow resistance.
Also, always use PVC cleaner before gluing a clear one is available if you don't want to see all the typical blue around joints. Tip: Fernco couplings make pipe joints simple. This is a rubber coupling with stainless steel clamps and comes in many configurations and is available at home centers and plumbing supply houses. After installation, check for tightness periodically if used near pumps.
They have been known to loosen, detach and allow depletion of an entire pond. Tip: Skimmers are a really "nice-to-have. They keep the surface looking great and both require a pump to operate external is best - to GPH.
You've already decided whether you're going to have a partially raised pond and what that structure will be made of and look like, or you know what type of stone you're going to use around the place.
The rule here is to hide the liner and the plumbing. The water level should always be a little above the exposed liner inside the pond. This means that the liner must not only go under rocks placed around the edge of the pond, it must come up behind them as well. To accomplish this, a shelf an inch or two below the intended water line is in order remember, you know where the water line is going to be because of the levels shot with the transit.
Hiding that back edge or tip of liner can be accomplished by using overlapping rocks, plants, decking, you name it see diagram. Here's where your imagination comes to play. Just don't let it show either inside the pond or out. Decide how the excavation at the top perimeter of the pond should be done to arrive at the look you intended. Its a good idea to steer clear of a necklace or swimming pool look except maybe for a partially raised pond.
Now's the time to check the dimensions of the pond again and calculate the size liner you're going to need. Length plus 4' plus depth X2 , and width plus 4' plus depth X2. That 4' in each direction is to give you 2' overhang all around. Thus a pond 25 X 13 and 3' deep needs a piece of liner a minimum of 35 X 23 plus any for bog garden, streams or waterfalls.
If the stones you're using are more than 18" wide, you will need to add liner accordingly. The rule of thumb is, if water is going to be there, there must be a covering of liner AND a lip at the back to contain it. Don't forget to include a planned stream or waterfall. They need to be lined as well and the water contained on the sides with the liner hidden of course.
Or, there is an EPDM tape that will work if applied with care and correctly. The fundamentals are all there but technology and new developments have passed it by.
Now the hole is perfect and its time to lay a padding for the EPDM. Old carpet works well, as does sand or carpet padding, almost anything that will give a bit of cushion and help the liner resist puncture from underneath.
Once that's in place you're ready to lay the liner. And since its pretty heavy, fellow club members or friends are needed for this operation. One method is to lay the whole liner out and roll it up from the sides to the center lengthwise then tie it in a few places to facilitate carrying by you and your friends. Then march single file through the hole, placing the liner properly lengthwise, then roll it out from the center and up the sides. Another way is to get six people to hold it out over the hole then gradually let it drop into place.
Once its in the proper position, smooth out the bottom over the hole for the bottom drain, mark the hole with a Magic Marker, then cut the hole in the liner as neatly as possible with a utility knife. With the collar in place install the screws or whatever fasteners came with the drain trying to apply equal tightening all around. Wait for that to set-up according to the directions for the adhesive, then proceed to lay the liner so as to avoid as many folds and wrinkles as possible this the major down side to using a liner - some folds and wrinkles can't be avoided and will harbor crud.
This was my saddest day as I couldn't imagine getting that huge sheet of rubber to flatten out and look like anything - but of course it mainly did and once covered with algae, and with gorgeous fish swimming around I don't notice it anyway. As the pond slowly fills its possible to work even more wrinkles out as the weight of the water starts to work in your favor. Its not a good idea though, to stretch the wrinkles out by letting water act as air would in a balloon - this ends up thinning the liner.
Some folks have filled their pond, left it sit for a few days, then pumped it out and started the wrinkle removing process again as they refilled. They say it helped. Also, the use of 6" EPDM tape can help flatten and seal major folds. This is a lesson learned the hard way by too many of us. Now to the filtration system. At this stage you should have the system all hooked up and in place or have all the necessary parts on hand.
You've kept the water in the pond from running out the drainpipes by closing the knife valve for each. Look at the attached filter diagram as only one of many ways and means to arrive at the same end; good water quality. The filter system is the key to that and if we don't have good water quality, we can't keep koi very long - period. It takes advantage of the gravitational force to clean the dirt from the pond. It works without harming the fishes of a pond.
It has an excellent liquid flow rate, and its effectiveness increases after adding a oxygenate system. The bottom filter appears in different sizes, that ranges between 8 to 10 inches. It is driven by a suction pump, then it is connected to a mechanical filter and a biological filter to filtrate the removed water from the pond.
When you will be setting a bottom filter for your pond you need to keep a few things under consideration. You should follow the tips listed below —. The bottom filter or bottom drain in a fish pond is becoming popular because it has many advantages. The advantages you will get from the bottom filter are listed here-. You will find a different bottom filter on the market; you may get confused about which one you should buy?
Let me help you to choose the best type of bottom filter for your fish pond. Your personal data will be used to support your experience throughout this website, to manage access to your account, and for other purposes described in our privacy policy. Bottom Drain Installation. Estimated reading time: 3 min. In this article. Step 1 At the lowest point of the pond, stub up a 3 inch bottom drain and cap it off. Step 3 When cementing both bulkheads on to the pipes, align screw in a straight line.
Step 4 Add cement to hole around drain. Step 5 After the cement dries, use a screw driver to remove the cement right up against both of the bulkheads. Step 6 Remove top flanges and sweep area clean. Step 7 Place liner in pond. Step 9 Install the top flange in place over the bottom drain hole by aligning the flange with the center opening of the bulkhead.
Step 10 After all screws are installed in the flange then hand tighteneach screw. Step 11 Cut liner away from inside bulkhead. The ID will depend on the distance you need to push air and the size of your air compressor, with larger distances and stronger compressors requiring higher diameter pipework.
The advantages of a bottom drainage system are clear, but it is something best installed in new construction projects and not in existing ponds. If your water quality is good and waste is kept to a minimum via other means i. Here is a great video from you tube showing the basics for installing a bottom drain in a new pond build The Koi Toilet II is fairly small as far as bottom drains go, being only around 12 inches in length and weighting just 3 lbs 1.
The bottom drain features a curved dome on top for smooth wave flow over the surface within the pond, and a thick flange and liner ring for a better fit around the pond liner. Although you can seal this away with sediment, we always recommend concrete with bottom drains to ensure everything is super secure at the base. There is no diffuser plate included in this model, which makes installation a little easier but also means you have option for aeration in future. Unlike the model above, this is an aerated bottom drain meaning it comes complete with top diffuser plate that needs to be hooked up with an air compressor for operation, and this addition is reflected in the higher purchase cost.
When it comes to aeration, the bottom drain comes fitted with a wide top diffuser plate which sits neatly above a curved dome top. The recommended air compressor strength is 0.
Overall, a very solid bottom drain option with high aeration potential at a very reasonable price point. This bottom drain is considered by many as the premium standard for bottom drain design, with high build quality, large drainage and air connections, as well as high aeration potential. The sweeping and extremely smooth internal bottom of the product provides very efficient debris movement with little chance of clogging.
Build quality is really good here, with the bottom drain being made from ultra durable molded ABS which is highly resistant to wear and tear.
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